Chattogram is the lungs and the wallet of Bangladesh. As the commercial capital, it possesses an energy that is distinct from the political chaos of Dhaka. Here, money talks, but it speaks in the distinct, rapid-fire Chatgaya dialect that outsiders often struggle to comprehend. The geography of the district is unique in a country that is mostly flat. Chattogram is a city of hills, winding roads, and the sea. The port is the heart of the region. If the port stops, the country stops. Watching the cranes unload containers at the harbor gives you a sense of the sheer volume of goods that flows into this nation. But beyond the industrial grit, there is a deep spiritual layer. It is known as the Land of the Twelve Saints. The shrine of Bayazid Bostami is a major pilgrimage site, famous not just for the saint but for the ancient, massive soft-shell turtles in the pond. Legend says they are cursed spirits, and feeding them is a ritual that draws thousands.
Nature battles with industry here. The drive towards Sitakunda offers a dystopian view of the ship-breaking yards, where massive ocean liners are torn apart by hand on the beach. It is a graveyard of giants, terrifying and fascinating. Yet, just a few kilometers away, the eco-park offers waterfalls and hiking trails that lead to the Chandranath Temple. Perched high on a hill, this temple is a test of endurance to reach, but the view of the sea from the top is spiritual. The city itself is cosmopolitan, hosting the Ethnological Museum which is the only one of its kind in the country, showcasing the diverse tribal cultures of the nearby hill tracts.
Food is a religion in Chattogram. The traditional Mezban is a feast of beef cooked in a specific, fiery spice mix that is unlike any other curry. It is a communal event where the rich and poor sit together to eat. During Eid-ul-Azha, the obsession with cattle reaches a fever pitch here, with the biggest and most expensive bulls in the country being sold in the local markets. The Patenga Sea Beach, while crowded and industrial, is the city's escape valve. People gather here to eat spicy crab fry and watch the ships wait in the outer anchorage. Chattogram is a district of sharp contrasts. You have the lush greenery of the CRB hills, the colonial architecture of the railway district, and the grime of the industrial zones all packed into one vibrant, hilly package.