Cumilla is a district of banks, tanks, and khaki. It acts as the bridge between the capital and the port city, but it has an identity that is fiercely intellectual and historical. The district is famous for its 'Dighis' or massive man-made ponds. The Dharmasagar Dighi is the centerpiece of the town, a place where locals walk in the evening and where the history of the Tripuri kings is remembered. Cumilla has always been an educational hub. The Victoria College is an institution that has produced generations of politicians, writers, and thinkers. The presence of the Bangladesh Academy for Rural Development (BARD) puts it on the global map for development studies. It is a district that feels organized and cleaner than many of its neighbors.
Archaeologically, Cumilla is a heavyweight. The Mainamati-Lalmai ridge is a treasure trove of ancient Buddhist civilization. The Shalban Vihara is a massive monastery complex dating back to the 8th century. Walking among the ruins of the monks' cells and the central shrine, you can feel the weight of a time when this region was a center of learning for the entire Buddhist world. The museum nearby houses bronze statues and terracotta plaques that are exquisite. It is a stark contrast to the bustling Cantonment area, which is one of the oldest and most vital military bases in the country. The discipline of the cantonment bleeds into the city's atmosphere.
Then there is the Khadi. During the anti-British movement, Cumilla became a center for the Khadi cloth industry, symbolizing self-reliance. You can still buy authentic hand-spun Khadi fabric here, which is breathable and carries a sense of history. But the most famous export is undoubtedly the Rasmalai. Specifically, the Rasmalai from Matri Bhandar. There are dozens of shops claiming to be the original, but the real one does not have a sign in English and is always crowded. The sweet consists of small, soft cheese balls soaked in thickened, sweetened milk. It is creamy, rich, and addictive. People travelling through Cumilla on the highway are practically obligated to stop and buy a pot of this sweet. It is a district that balances its military precision with ancient history and a very sweet tooth.