Khulna is the industrial giant of the south, acting as the third largest city in Bangladesh and the undisputed capital of the deltaic southwest. It sits on the banks of the Rupsha and Bhairab rivers, waterways that are thick with the traffic of barges, trawlers, and paddle steamers. Historically, Khulna was known for its jute mills. The Platinum Jubilee Jute Mills and others like it were once the roaring engines of the economy. While the golden fiber's glory has faded, the city has reinvented itself. It is now the primary gateway to the Sundarbans, the largest mangrove forest in the world. Every journey into the wild heart of the mangroves usually begins here, at the chaotic but exciting launch terminal where tourists board vessels to head south. The city itself has a unique rhythm. It feels significantly cleaner and less frantic than Dhaka. The roads in the Khalishpur and Sonadanga areas are wide, lined with old rain trees that provide much-needed shade in the humid heat.
Khulna is also home to the Khulna Shipyard, a strategic asset for the nation, where warships and commercial vessels are built and repaired. Seeing a massive frigate being welded on the dry dock is a testament to the engineering prowess of the region. But for the average visitor, Khulna is a culinary pilgrimage. The star of the show here is Chui Jhal. This is not a pepper but the stem of a Piperaceae plant. When cooked with beef or mutton, it dissolves into the gravy, adding a spicy, woody, and aromatic kick that numbs the tongue in the most delightful way. A meal at Abbas Hotel or Kamrul Hotel to eat Chui Jhal beef is mandatory. The meat is usually tender, falling off the bone, and the gravy is dark and rich.
The city also hosts the Khulna University, which has a reputation for being student-politics free and academically rigorous, contributing to a vibrant youth culture. The Hadis Park in the city center is the gathering spot for everything from political rallies to evening strolls. Nearby, the Dak Bungalow area buzzes with commerce. Khulna is the point where the urban meet the wild. You can be sitting in a modern cafe sipping a cappuccino in the morning and be watching crocodiles on a riverbank by the afternoon. It is a city that manages the flow of shrimp, ships, and tourists with a workmanlike efficiency.