Manikganj is often viewed through the window of a bus by people rushing to catch a ferry, but it is much more than just a transit corridor. For decades, the ferry ghats at Paturia and Aricha were the gateways to the south and west. While the bridges have eased the pressure, the river culture remains strong. The Padma and Jamuna rivers meet near here, and the sheer scale of these waters is humbling. Standing at the ghats, watching the massive ferries load trucks and buses while small fishing boats bob in the wake, you feel the pulse of the nation's transport network. In winter, the district takes on a golden hue, quite literally. Manikganj is famous for its date palm juice, or Khejur Rosh. The 'Hazari Gur' produced here is the stuff of legend. It is a type of molasses that is incredibly expensive and rare, known for its crystalline texture and aroma. Finding authentic Hazari Gur is a treasure hunt, as the real artisans are few and far between.
Architecturally, Manikganj hides a massive gem: the Baliati Zamindar Bari. This 19th-century palace complex is one of the grandest in Bangladesh. The frontage features four symmetrical blocks with imposing Corinthian columns that look like they belong in Europe rather than rural Bengal. Walking through the high-ceilinged rooms and the overgrown courtyards, you get a heavy sense of the faded glory of the Zamindars. It is a melancholic but beautiful site. Nearby, the Teota Zamindar Bari offers another slice of history, standing right on the riverbank, linked to the family of the national rebel poet, Kazi Nazrul Islam.
Manikganj is also known for its folk music and culture. It has a strong tradition of Baul music and village fairs that come alive during the Bengali New Year. The soil here is fertile, supporting a lot of vegetable farming that supplies the kitchen markets of Dhaka. The drive through the district is scenic, with roads lined with mustard fields that turn bright yellow in January. It is a district that invites you to stop and look closer, rather than just driving through to get somewhere else. It holds the sweetness of date juice and the grandeur of lost aristocracies in equal measure.