Nilphamari is a district whose very name carries the weight of colonial history. It translates to 'Blue Farm' or 'Indigo Farm,' a stark reminder of the British era when local farmers were forced to cultivate indigo under brutal conditions. You can still find the ruins of the 'Nilkuthi' or indigo factories scattered around the district, silent witnesses to a painful past. But today, Nilphamari has reinvented itself as a commercial and cultural hub of the north. The heart of this transformation is Saidpur. Saidpur is not your typical Bangladeshi town. It is a railway city, established by the British as a massive workshop and transit point. Because of this, it has a unique demographic, hosting a large Urdu-speaking Bihari community that gives the town a distinct culture, language, and cuisine. The railway workshop is a city within a city, with red brick buildings, old steam locomotives on display, and a sense of industrial heritage that is rare in the country. The Saidpur Airport makes the district the primary entry point for air travelers heading to the Rangpur division, keeping the economy buzzing.
Nature here is serene and historic. The Nilsagar is a massive pond, or Dighi, that dates back to the Pala dynasty. In winter, it becomes a sanctuary for thousands of migratory birds. Walking along the banks of Nilsagar with the mist rolling off the water and the birds calling is a magical experience. It is a favorite picnic spot for locals who believe the waters have a spiritual quality. Another architectural marvel is the Chini Mosque or Chinese Mosque in Saidpur. Built in 1863, it is adorned with shards of Chinese porcelain plates and glass, creating a glittering, mosaic facade that is unlike any other mosque in Bangladesh. It is a testament to the community's artistry and devotion.
Nilphamari is also a major partner in the Teesta Barrage Project. This massive irrigation infrastructure sits on the border with Lalmonirhat and has transformed the agriculture of the region. The barrage area is a popular tourist spot, where people come to watch the water roar through the sluice gates and eat fresh fish fried on the riverbanks. Culturally, the district is rich in Bhawaiya music, the folk songs of the cart drivers that speak of love and longing. And no trip to Nilphamari is complete without visiting Domar to eat its sandesh. The sweets of this region are dry, crumbly, and made with a specific technique that makes them incredibly addictive. Nilphamari blends its dark colonial history with a vibrant, industrial present, all held together by the rhythm of the trains.