Sylhet is distinct from the rest of Bangladesh in a way that feels almost like a different country within a country. It is the spiritual capital, resting under the protective aura of the great Sufi saint Hazrat Shah Jalal. When you arrive, the first thing you notice is the shrine culture. The Dargah of Shah Jalal is not just a religious site; it is the gravitational center of the city where people from all walks of life, regardless of faith, come to find a moment of peace or to ask for favors. The air around the Dargah is thick with the smell of incense and rosewater, and the ponds filled with sacred catfish add a layer of mysticism that you do not find elsewhere. But beyond the spirituality, Sylhet is defined by its connection to the UK. This is the land of the 'Londonis.' The remittance money sent back by the diaspora has transformed the skyline and the economy. You will see massive, palace-like mansions standing in the middle of nowhere, built with foreign pounds, often sitting empty as their owners live in East London. This influx of wealth has created a unique consumer culture here, where posh eateries and shopping malls compete with traditional bazaars.
Geographically, the district is blessed. Just outside the concrete bustle of the main town, the landscape turns into a lush, undulating carpet of green. You have the Ratargul Swamp Forest, which is essentially the Amazon of Bangladesh on a micro scale. Navigating through the submerged trees on a silent wooden boat while the water reflects the canopy above is an ethereal experience. Then there is Jaflong, located on the border with India. While it has suffered from aggressive stone mining which strips away some of its beauty, the sight of the Dawki River with its crystal clear water coming down from the Khasi Hills is still a sight to behold. The food here also deserves a mention. Sylheti cuisine uses the Satkora, a citrus fruit that gives beef and fish curries a tangy, bitter aroma that is addictive once you acquire the taste. The local dialect is so distinct that a person from Dhaka might struggle to understand a conversation between two locals. It is a district of pride, deep heritage, and rolling hills.